Chicken Liver Dip – Sauce aux Foies de Volaille

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CHICKEN LIVER DIP – Sauce aux Foies de Volaille

This recipe is from the book and was also published, along with the photo above, in the EPIC Impact Journal 2018. I though I would share the recipe and photo from the book (below), as a way of posting recipes again, now that The Bordeaux Kitchen book is almost ONE YEAR OLD! As we head into summer, this versatile recipe will be a great way to introduce friends and family to organ meats!

 

I learned this recipe from my good friend and Bordeaux University wine course buddy, Malika Faytout, an organic winemaker in the Bordeaux region of Castillon. She says she still remembers me telling her that first day of class when we met that I was writing a book called The Bordeaux Kitchen, an ancestral French cookbook with a wine chapter and food and wine pairings.

 

We sat next to each other in the first row throughout the academic year, and she ended up being the top student in our class of about 45 students. Luckily, some of her smarts rubbed off on me, and I was able to pass the course, too. Malika had decided to take the wine course to be able to play a more central role in her family’s organic vineyard, Château Lescaneaut, in the Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, next to St. Emilion, both of which produce fruity, bold Merlot-based wines, and, as it turns out, a delicious accompaniment to the liver dip!

 

Season: Year-round

Preparation Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 12 to 15 minutes

Serves 4

This chicken liver dip recipe is versatile in that you can eat it warmed, room temperature, or chilled, with a variety of raw vegetables, such as a type of romaine leaf (“Paris Island” heirloom variety), as we did, or with endives or on top of lettuce, and with a thicker or thinner consistency. This is a delicious way to eat nutrient-dense chicken livers. This recipe can be halved or doubled, depending on your needs. It can be served as a party dip, an appetizer, or as a meal. When Malika and I made this recipe together, it was spring, so we used local spring garlic-onions (oignon aillé). In the photo here I used the sheath of a green onion. A scallion or peeled clove of garlic may be used instead of green onion.

 

2 tablespoons bacon fat (or duck fat)

15 whole chicken livers (12.5 ounces or 350 g)

1 tablespoon spring onion or garlic, minced

4 pinches of fine sea salt

1/3 cup water

3 teaspoons mustard

4 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Fine salt and ground pepper to taste

Fleur de sel for garnish

 

Melt the fat in a medium or large cast iron skillet over medium-high to high heat. Add the chicken livers, green onion (or garlic), and salt. [A reminder that a pinch (une pincée) is using three fingers. For fine salt, fleur de sel, pepper, and spices this turns out to be slightly less than 1/8 teaspoon. For coarser grains of sea salt, it might be slightly more.] Allow the livers to stick a bit to the pan, letting them caramelize a bit, stirring occasionally, for about five minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, stirring occasionally for an additional 7 to 10 minutes, until the livers are cooked through.

 

Remove the livers, allowing them to cool in a bowl for several minutes. Deglaze the pan with1/3 cup water to loosen the caramelized material stuck to the pan, and add this liquid to the bowl of livers.

 

Mix the livers in a food processor, in batches if needed, adding the mustard, vinegar, and olive oil, until you reach the desired consistency. (This step should take about 30 seconds.) To increase the liquid consistency of the sauce, add a bit more water and/or olive oil. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Top with fleur de sel for garnish. Fleur de sel is often used as a finishing touch, a chef’s secret topping to a savory dish or dessert. The fine, white cubes are pleasing to the eye and delicate on the tongue, and add a subtle crunch.

 

Serve while still warm, chilled, or at room temperature with romaine or endive leaves, with carrot or celery sticks, homemade beet or sweet potato chips. I prefer eating the dip warmed or at room temperature.

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WINE PAIRING TIP Malika’s family and I had their house wine, a flavorful 2012 Château Lescaneaut from the Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. Another classmate of ours, sommelière Annabelle Nicolle-Beaufils, alternately suggests a dry white Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec, from an area located between Bordeaux and the Pyrénées foothills of Pau more known for its sweet wines, which are also worth a try. Otherwise Annabelle proposes either an effervescent white Muscat from Languedoc-Roussillon or a Champagne. More such wine pairings are suggested in The Bordeaux Kitchen book.

 

March-April 2019 Newsletter

May is around the corner, so before we enter May, here is the March-April 2019 wrap-up…. 

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Highlights include my two Paris events, an homage to Notre Dame, a nomination to the GOURMAND International Cookbook Awards, and the latest press coverage (Paleo Magazine and my article in The Foreign Service Journal: “Ancestral Food Traditions for Modern Foreign Service Life.” )

Next steps for The Bordeaux Kitchen in this VIDEO clip from my book event in Paris…. (video courtesy of my dear friends Patrice Lanquetin and Ralph Brancaccio).

And Upcoming: I will be signing books at Mollat Bookstore’s stand during VINEXPO in May, Monday morning May 13th 10am-12pm and Wednesday afternoon May 15th from 4pm to 6pm — please stop by if you are there! (Below, my American Library in Paris presentation moderator and friend Cynthia Coutu of DelectaBulles and I in front of La Tour Eiffel.)

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January-February 2019 Newsletter

Time is flying, it’s almost March for crying out loud! Here you will find the latest update of The Bordeaux Kitchen Newsletter for January and February.

In this VIDEO clip from my book event in September 2018 (which I just received and wanted to post), Garrett Snyder interviews me about how The Bordeaux Kitchen book came about and how the French Paradox is not a paradox! (Video courtesy of Kevin Concepcion of Now Serving LA.)

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PARIS IN SPRING!

As mentioned in my last post: If you are in or can get to Paris in April, please come to my book presentation (in English) on Wednesday April 3rd, 2019 7:30pm to 9pm at the American Library in Paris!! Address: 10 Rue du Général Camou, 75007 Paris. Book purchase and signing. Free event (with Bordeaux wine and French cheeses, mais oui!)

Happy New Year / December Newsletter & Event Video

It’s a new year, and I have not been able to keep up with blog posts very often, though I update the rest of this blog behind the scenes in all the tabs almost every week (see Press, Events, Praise…)! The newsletter takes a lot of time, so why not post it as a blog entry, with pretty photos, etc., so you know I’m alive and working! Here is the December Newsletter, with details about my book launch event in Bordeaux and links to the previous newsletters on it! And for your viewing pleasure (and laughs), please see below also the video of the last few minutes of my presentation of The Bordeaux Kitchen book at the event in Bordeaux, in French (yikes!)

Bonne Année!

 

PS – SAVE THE DATE: If you are in or can get to Paris in April, please come to my book presentation (in English) on Wednesday April 3rd, 2019 7:30pm to 9pm at the American Library in Paris!! Address: 10 Rue du Général Camou, 75007 Paris. Book purchase and signing. Free event.

Rabbit With Prunes – Lapin aux Pruneaux

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RABBIT WITH PRUNES — Lapin aux Pruneaux

Season: Year Round

Preparation Time: 5 minutes, longer if you are chopping the rabbit or bacon bits yourself

Total Cooking Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Serves 4 to 5

It’s been a while (2 years!) since I posted a recipe, my goodness! But that is because I have poured everything into The Bordeaux Kitchen book! I have been adding to the other pages at the top of the home page, slowly but surely. Now, for a recipe! This one is not in the book, as I just made it recently with my lovely friend from Nice, France, Joelle Luson. We did Beef Burgundy together, as well as several other recipes, which you will find in the book.

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Paleo Breaded Veal Sweetbreads

Ris de Veau Panés

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This recipe can be used for both Veal or Lamb Sweetbreads. The photos in this post depict Veal Sweetbreads. The flour used in this recipe is organic chestnut flour, locally-sourced, Paleo-approved!

Prep Time: 35 minutes (plus up to one hour if you wish to soak the sweetbreads first in water)

Cook Time: 10-15 minutes

Total Time: 45-50 minutes

 Serves:  4

Description: Sweetbreads are the thymus gland of the animal. They have a light texture, like very tender meat and are not chewy. In France, they are a delicacy, as they have a very subtle flavor and are nutrient dense. They are also rare and therefore expensive, as there is only one pair of thymus glands per animal. This recipe can be used for veal or lamb sweetbreads. This can be served either as an appetizer or a main course.

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Stuffed Guinea Fowl

La Pintade Farcie

Tania Teschke Photography-Poulailler D'Augustin Pintade Farcie-2117

Serves 4-6

The Pintade is a wild breed of bird (un oiseau sauvage) which began to be imported into France in the 1900s and has since become domesticated and raised in France and other countries. The taste is more pronounced than chicken. It also dries quickly when being cooked, therefore it is usually tied up to retain not only the stuffed contents but also the juices. The fat in the stuffing also helps keep the bird juicy.

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Poached & Sautéed Lamb Brains

Cervelles d’Agneau Pochées

Serves 1 per person

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I can say that it was a little hard to swallow the first bite or two, as the smell was subtle but new to me, and the texture a bit mushy. To my co-chef and former neighbor, Rebecca Pinsolle, the scent takes her back to her days visiting her grandmother. This is the same effect that smooth pork liverwurst has on me, it transports me to my childhood when I would smear that liverwurst on dark German bread for my breakfast. I am truly grateful for that small indoctrination into “strange” foods, as I think it has helped me to be able to enjoy other foods like chicken livers paté or just plain old liver. And foie gras, of course.

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Bordeaux Oysters with Wrapped Pork and Shallot Meatballs

Huitres à la Bordelaise, Crépinette de Porc à l’Echalote

Serves 6

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Preparation Trumps Complication

Despite the fact that this recipe looks complicated with lots of steps, it’s basically oysters and meatballs! You can eat either of these separately, but also together, who knew?, to pack a one-two nutrient-dense punch for your health, because it combines zinc and selenium-rich oysters with nutrient-dense pork balls (containing pork fat, meat and liver, and let’s not forget the all-powerful but under-exploited vitamin-rich parsley). Plus, you can double the recipe, make bunches of meatballs in advance and freeze them for future snacks and meals when you have less time to prepare a meal. So make this recipes on a day you have set aside several hours for prepping meals ahead for the week. This is one key to success to having access during the busy times of the week: prepared, homemade food! The oysters must be consumed immediately, of course, particularly once opened. So that’s a fun way to invite some friends over and share a meal, making sure one of them knows how to open an oyster! (This is a skill I have yet to master!)

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